Care Sheet: Crested or Gargoyle Gecko
The following care sheet is intended to be as comprehensive as possible based on my own experience and research. This information is applicable to crested and gargoyle geckos. Although care for other New Caledonian geckos is similar, I have no experience keeping them. Please do not use this page as your only source when researching care for your animals. It is beneficial to read as many sources as you can, especially from other experienced reptile keepers, before committing to buying or adopting.
Housing
The first thing to think about when getting a new reptile is where you will keep them. Housing New Caledonian geckos is fairly simple as compared to many other reptiles. I have provided another page on terrarium setups with more detailed guides on how I built my gecko setups including specific products and prices, but I will describe the basics here.
The biggest question is how big your container should be. Baby geckos under 5g should be kept in a container no larger than 10 gallons. Once your gecko reaches 10-20g you can upgrade them to a 30 gallon terrarium where they can remain throughout adulthood. For larger species like R. leachianus, a 40 gallon terrarium might be more comfortable. New Caledonian geckos are arboreal, meaning they live in trees and prefer lots of vertical space, so try to get a terrarium that is taller rather than wider and fill it with objects to climb on.
New Caledonian geckos are comfortable at room temperature and do not bask, and therefore do not require heat supplementation. However, if the room they are kept in has extreme temperatures outside of their range, additional regulation or relocation may be necessary. Try to keep temperatures in the mid to high 70’s during the day, and drops to the mid 60’s are tolerable at night. Temperatures exceeding about mid 80's can be fatal, so be careful during warmer seasons.
Another relevant factor in housing is your gecko’s photoperiod, or the amount of time they are in the light vs dark. New Caledonian geckos are nocturnal, meaning they are active at night and sleep during the day. Some gecko breeders have observed that photoperiod affects growth rate in young geckos. I typically aim to have a photoperiod that mimics nature, especially because my crested gecko Lovecraft refuses to leave his hide if the lights are on. If you do keep lights on your terrarium (especially a bioactive one) I would recommend getting an automatic timer.
Terrarium setup for a baby gargoyle gecko
Two differently sized geckos of different species, housed separately
Cohabitation
If you intend on keeping multiple geckos together, or “cohabitating” them, be careful. Many in the reptile community completely object to cohabitation because most reptiles are not social species. However, many others have been able to safely keep a pair or group of New Caledonian geckos together with no problems.
There are a few rules that should be followed for cohabitating geckos. First, never keep two males together. They are aggressive and will often fight to the death, especially if there are females around. Second, never keep geckos of different sizes together. The larger gecko may bully the smaller one, injuring them or preventing them from accessing food. Avoid keeping baby geckos together in any situation. They are fragile and need to be closely monitored, so are best kept alone. Also make sure to never keep multiple reptile species in one enclosure, even if they share the same habitat in nature. Third, always keep one terrarium per gecko. In the event that your cohabitating geckos start bullying each other, you will need to immediately separate them. Also note that keeping a male and female adult pair together will almost guarantee breeding, and breeding females require a lot of extra care.
Cohabitating geckos comes with its own challenges. It is hard to keep track of how much your geckos are eating (unless they are individually hand-fed) because you cannot identify which gecko left feces in the terrarium or removed food from their feeding dish. In order to improve the chances of your cohabitating geckos getting adequate food, try having two food dishes in separate locations, so they can feed without needing to compete.
For all the above reasons, I really would not recommend cohabitation. Although it can and has been done, it is really safer for your geckos and easier for you to keep them separate outside of breeding. Letting your geckos interact during supervised handling sessions is fine, but cohabitation causes unnecessary stress.
Feeding
One of the reasons New Caledonian geckos are so popular is that they are easy to feed. There are a number of commercial powder diets that only need to be mixed with water. One of the most popular is Allen Repashy's Crested Gecko Meal Replacement Powder (MRP), which comes in different flavours. The regular MRP, the Classic version, and Mango Superblend are all appropriate for New Caledonian geckos. Repashy also makes seasonal flavours! The other popular choice is Pangea's Complete Gecko Diet (CGD), which is my personal preference. It also comes in a number of flavours including Watermelon Mango, Banana Apricot, Insects, and Banana Papaya. For breeding or growing geckos, go for one with high protein content.
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Both Pangea and Repashy include instructions for preparation on their packaging. For my adult crested gecko, I mix one half a teaspoon of distilled water with one quarter teaspoon CGD. Make sure you rotate through different flavours or brands frequently, because offering new food options encourages feeding. Feed your gecko every night or every other night depending on their appetite. Feeding them at night will ensure the food is still fresh when nocturnal animals are active.
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Hand feeding your gecko is another option. Try to avoid hand feeding too frequently or your geckos may stop eating on their own. However, this is a good way to ensure your gecko is eating if you are worried about their appetite. Hand feeding also helps in taming reptiles, as they will learn to associate handling with food. Geckos will eat CGD or MRP right off a spoon or your finger! Just make sure anything touching their food is clean.
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Insects can be offered to your geckos as treats, but require some preparation. Before feeding insects to your geckos, make sure the insects are full of nutrients by "gut loading". This simply means feeding your insects lots of healthy greens about 24 hours before feeding. You should also dust insects with calcium powder right before feeding. This powder can be purchased from a number of sources, I use Repashy's Calcium Plus.
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Choosing the appropriate feeder insects is basically an issue of size. Crickets, mealworms, and dubia roaches are the most popular choices. Especially for crickets, aim to get insects no larger than the distance between your gecko's eyes. This is a good way to estimate whether the insect will be small enough for an individual gecko to swallow. Feeder insects can be purchased at most reptile expos and pet stores. Never feed your gecko insects caught in the wild because they can carry nasty pathogens that could get your gecko sick. However, some geckos are just not interested in insects at all! Lovecraft and Data have never eaten the bugs I've offered them.
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You can also feed your gecko fruit pieces or pureed fruit as a treat. Watermelon, mango, and papaya are good choices. Try to avoid fruits that are highly acidic like citrus or have a high potassium to calcium ratio.
Hand feeding Lovecraft
A crested gecko licks water droplets off his terrarium wall
Water
New Caledonian geckos thrive in a humid environment. Using a hygrometer or humidity gauge, monitor the humidity levels in your gecko's enclosure. High humidity helps loosen skin before shedding, and condensed water droplets on walls and decorations in your terrarium will serve as the main drinking water source. You should mist your gecko's enclosure every night and let it dry out during the day. I usually aim for humidity of about 70% when misting, and this typically drops to around 50%. A simple plastic spray bottle (like this one) designed for gardening will work fine for a small terrarium.
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Some gecko keepers will keep another food dish filled with water as a secondary drinking source. If you choose to keep a water bowl, make sure to change it daily. Do not leave feeder insects in your terrarium if you have a water bowl because they may drown.
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Different people use different types of water for their geckos. Try to avoid using tap water, especially in areas with "hard water" full of minerals you cannot control. I personally prefer distilled water because it does not leave water stains, making it easier to clean. Distilled water has no added minerals, just like the rainwater your geckos would be drinking in the wild.
Sexing
Determining the sex of a gecko is quite easy for adults. The male will develop a large bulge under the base of his tail, while the female will not. This is called the hemipenal bulge, and protects his reproductive organs. During mating or while grooming, males can push their hemipenes out, and usually use their tongues to assist in pushing the hemipenes back in.
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Even before an obvious bulge develops, you can still determine a gecko's sex. Males will develop rows of pores on the scales between their back legs starting at about 5 months old. These pores can be difficult to see with the naked eye, so using a magnifying glass or jeweller's loupe should help. Some females also develop pores, or pseudo-pores, but there are usually fewer pores and not in such defined rows. Sometimes it is difficult to be 100% sure of a gecko's sex until they have reached almost adult size, as some geckos won't start showing a bulge or pores until months after expected.
Subadult male crested gecko's hemipenal bulge
Data fired up (left) and fired down (right)
Handling
Handling your gecko can be one of the most entertaining and rewarding parts of keeping one, but you must be careful to ensure safety for you and your animals. Although they can be tamed, geckos don't really love interacting with humans as much as we do with them. Initially, your gecko will probably see you as a threat. Changing this perception to make your gecko more comfortable is relatively easy but takes patience.
After a 2-3 week period of letting your new gecko settle into their home, start taking them out for about 5 minutes at a time. Don't start by handling them every day. Clean your hands before and after handling any animal. Pick up your gecko by placing your hand in front of them and letting them climb on. A gentle push to encourage them is okay. Avoid picking your gecko up from above because if they cannot see you they may be startled. Never pick a gecko up by their tail because they may drop it. Many geckos, especially crested geckos, jump a lot during handling. Try to minimise the risk of injury from jumping or falling by not holding your gecko high off the ground and keeping them above a soft surface.
If you have a baby gecko under about 3 inches (not including tail), do not start handling them until they reach that size. Very young geckos are jumpy, easily scared, fragile, and can easily overheat, fall or be crushed. It is altogether safer to just leave them alone. Of course there are times when handling is appropriate, such as when weighing, feeding, or cleaning their enclosure, but keep it to a minimum.
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One thing you may notice while handling is that geckos have the amazing ability to change their skin colour! When a gecko is exposed to stimuli that make them stressed or excited, they can "fire up", making their skin a darker colour. The frequency at which a gecko fires up varies by the individual. Some geckos may seem to be fired up all the time, and some may be fired down most of the time. They can also "misfire", in which only part of the skin gets darker, resulting in interesting patterns.
Lovecraft in shed
Common Health Problems
Please note that this section is not intended to be professional medical advice. I am not a trained veterinarian. However, my background in biology and experience keeping reptiles has helped me learn some basics of gecko health. Please consult your local exotic veterinarian for serious gecko medical concerns.
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One of the biggest health problems for many geckos is metabolic bone disease (MBD). Symptoms include deformation of the skeleton, depleted calcium sacs, and difficulty producing eggs. MBD is a serious condition that can be fatal or debilitating. It is caused by calcium deficiency and is easily preventable. Ensure your gecko is getting a balanced diet including vitamin D3 and calcium. For many reptiles, UVB light is also necessary for proper calcium processing, but nocturnal New Caledonian geckos don't require any light supplementation. You can check your gecko's calcium levels by looking at their calcium sacs. Get your gecko to open their mouth and look for two white round sacs. They are typically larger in females. A gecko with depleted calcium reserves should receive calcium supplements to prevent MBD.
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An early warning sign of MBD is tail wag, although this condition is also common in hatchlings and will usually go away with age. If your baby gecko is exhibiting kinks in their tail, it is likely nothing to worry about. A gecko's bones were formed in the egg from their mother's calcium reserves. Especially late in the breeding season, these reserves may be depleted, resulting in tail wag. With a healthy diet of CGD or MRP, your gecko should outgrow the condition, but if you are concerned, calcium supplementation should help. In adult cases of tail wag, especially if this is a recent onset of the condition in an adult gecko, I would definitely recommend calcium supplementation.
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It is relatively common for many species of geckos to 'drop' their tails, which seems alarming at first but is really nothing to worry about. The ability to drop tails evolved as a defence mechanism to confuse and distract predators. Many crested geckos in the wild are tailless, a condition that has been nicknamed "frog butts" among hobbyists. Crested geckos, unlike most species, will not grow their tails back after dropping. Leachianus, chahoua, and gargoyle geckos will regrow their tails quite quickly after dropping, although the new tail will likely not look exactly like the original. If your gecko drops their tail, immediately remove them from any stressful conditions. For example if you are handling your gecko, return them to their terrarium, or if your geckos are cohabitating, separate them. For the next few days while the wound is healing, your priority should be to keep it clean to prevent infection. Remove any loose substrate from your gecko's terrarium and if necessary, set up a second terrarium with paper towel substrate. Monitor your gecko's new tail growth if applicable, and see a veterinarian if signs of infection appear.
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Impaction occurs when a gecko eats too much of a non-food substance, typically their terrarium substrate, blocking their digestive system. It can easily be prevented by avoiding loose substrates. However, if you must use loose substrate, avoid feeding live insects inside the terrarium, and keep any food dishes well off the ground. The easiest way to determine if your gecko is impacted is to check their feces. If your gecko is not defecating, or has substrate in their fecal matter, impaction may be a problem. In cases of impaction occurring, see your veterinarian as soon as possible because it can be a fatal condition.
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Tail rot is the death of tissues in the tail, typically starting at the tip of the tail and progressing towards to base. This condition is easy to treat but can also resolve on its own. The first sign of tail rot is the darkening and drying of skin at the tip of the tail, as seen in the photo. In Lovecraft's case, the necrosis stopped spreading quite quickly and resolved on its own with some additional humidity. He lost a couple scales but was otherwise fine. In more severe cases however, the tail needs to come off to prevent necrosis from reaching the body and its vital organs. I would seriously not recommend removing your gecko's tail yourself, but with severe tail rot you can induce your gecko to drop their tail. This is usually stressful for both gecko and keeper, so is best left to a professional reptile veterinarian or experienced keeper.
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Another common problem for geckos is stuck shed. Although I have rarely experienced this in New Caledonian geckos, it was a major issue for my leopard gecko. Geckos in shed normally don't need any special attention assuming humidity is being appropriately regulated. However, if your gecko is taking more than a couple days to remove their skin, or if pieces of skin get stuck on extremities like toes or tails, intervention may be necessary. Geckos can lose toes, get infections, and more from stuck shed so it is important to treat if it occurs. You can help your lizard remove stuck shed by giving them a bath. Let them soak in a shallow (1-1.5cm) container of lukewarm water to loosen the skin, then gently massage off any remaining pieces or rub them off with a cotton swab. If your gecko refuses to sit in a bath, put them in a closed container with a moist paper towel to make a sauna for about 10 minutes, then massage off the loose skin. Be careful not to rip pieces off or you could accidentally damage the new, healthy skin underneath. Also note that your gecko will normally eat their own skin after shedding to recycle nutrients. As with all of these health problems, please consult a knowledgeable veterinarian if the issue is too severe to treat yourself or if you do not feel comfortable removing skin.
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Tail wag in a baby gargoyle gecko
A minor case of tail rot
Lovecraft prepares for a bath to get stuck shed off his toes
Weight
Tracking your gecko's weight is important to monitoring their health. Sudden or rapid weight change can often be indicative of stress or disease. You should use a kitchen scale that measures grams to at least one decimal place. Keeping track of your geckos' weights is also helpful in determining maturity. A crested gecko is considered adult at around 35g and gargoyles around 50g. However both species can grow much bigger than this, with some gargoyles passing 80g! My crested gecko seems to have a stable adult weight of about 50g. Don't worry if your geckos aren't gaining much weight over the winter because cold temperatures slow their growth.
The following table includes all my geckos' weights in grams, recorded approximately weekly. Different individuals grow at different rates, but comparing growth rates is useful to determine what a normal, healthy weight is for your gecko.
Weighing Data on my scale